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I am going back in the water


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Today is the day. I haven't been in that ocean since I thought I was going to drown. It still blows my mind that of all the years of competitions, pro surfing, and titles, that a tiny two foot wave took me out! And not even that, just a drop of water. My best friend flew in from California for the weekend and last night kept after me saying why weren't you in that water. Yeah, I have been working. I'm also his realtor so he said we talk property in the water tomorrow, meet ya in the board room (the ocean). grrrrr....just about every deal that gets done, gets done in the lineup out surfing. If Edge surfed I think his Malibu situation could be worked out no problems. So, today is the day. I am going back in that ocean..I still dont feel ready to do this.

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